Friday, 31 May 2013

Part I: Museum of Bags and Purses Amsterdam



What do you when you missed your trips to Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum and Anne Frank House due to flight cancellations/delays, and staying out till late the night before and sleeping past the alarm time? 

Go and check out another museum. One that even some locals haven't heard of, but bagaholics--or in my case a bagaholic in remission--can seek refuge from.


The Museum of Bags and Purses or Tassenmuseum Hendrikje started out as a 35-year private collection of Hendrikje Ivo. It grew into its current 4,000-catalogue showcasing the history of and pieces of western bags from the 15th century to the present.

The museum's housed at the former Herengracht residence of Pieter de Graeff who came from a long line of de facto patricians from the Dutch Golden Age. 

The bags and accessories in the museum are either donated, on loan, or bought by the museum. Click here if you have a bag or accessory you think deserves a space in their display cases.


I was greeted at the entrance by a photo of this evening bag which is one of the pieces on display at the contemporary design section. It's a silk evening bag studded with shells or capiz designed in 2008 and donated by Philippine designer Cora Jacobs. I grew up admiring her designs which are crafted from indigenous materials. In fact, one of my most recent acquisitions is a clutch from her collection.


My own Cora Jacobs clutch. I love the textured mint velvet and the MOP/tortoise magnetic fastener.

The exhibit starts at the 3rd floor--that is, if you prefer to view the bags chronologically from the 16th century. You'll be ascending this magnificent staircase.


 And will land this view


 The rooms are very stately which are now occupied by the cafe and tea rooms. Trip Advisor reviewers have some lovely photos of the rooms.The museum is also a licenced wedding venue.

My apologies by the way for the quality of photos. I edited them, but for some reason they keep reverting to the original version. The muted museum lighting and glare of the glass cabinets didn't help either to highlight the colours and textures of the bags and accessories on display. Any tips from photography enthusiasts are very much welcome.


Now, let's start with the temporary exhibition.



Temporary Exhibit: School Bags
Don't worry, no pop quiz on this. I'll just show you photos of Dutch wooden school boxes which were the forerunners of modern school bags.



This one didn't look happy to go to school.
Dutch wooden schoolboxes served as storage and desk and were used between 17th and 20th centuries, and ranged from plain to intricately carved or decorated based on the region. The more skillful the father was, the most beautiful the schoolbox. So, no DIY skill, no bag?

Off to the permanent exhibit rooms...


Permanent Exhibit: The Evolution of the Modern Handbag


Letter cases and wallets
The 17th century saw the beginning of the use of letter cases and wallets, usually used to keep love letters. They were often given as engagement or wedding presents or favours. An 18th-century woman's letter case often had a pocket notebook for her to write about the latest gossip, fashion, her lovers, poems, and recipes. I think it's now called Facebook.


Personal Bags
Clothing back then had no inside pockets, so bags and purses came into fashion for both men and women to carry around their personal effects. With the incorporation of pockets in men's clothing, personal bags fell into disuse.

Leather drawstring pouch, The Netherlands, 17th century.
This pouch was so tiny a man could fit only a few handful of coins.


Silk bridal bag with groom (the French King Louis XV) and the bride (Princess Maria Leszczynska) in enamel on copper, Limoges, France, 1725.
In Italy, France, and to a lesser degree in England, there was a tradition of the bridegroom giving the bride a special wedding purse filled with money during the wedding ceremony. The French city of Limoges, famous for its enamel and porcelain, produced this type of bridal bags between 1690 and 1760.


Goat leather belt pouch with iron frame and some 18 pockets, some of which were secret compartments, France, 16th century.
This bag was worn on a belt, which I suppose was also made of iron as the frame of this bag would've worn down leather. A bit creepy because it was the size of a human head which made it look like Hannibal Lecter's dinner. I believe we can categorise it as the first belt bag or bum bag or fanny pack, whatever you want to call it depending on which side of the Atlantic you're from.

Various types of stocking purses
Also called the long purse, ring purse or gentlemen's purse, the stocking purse was a long crocheted or knitted sheath which was closed at both ends and with an opening in the middle for easy access. Two rings around the middle were moved towards the end to close off the contents. Its popularity waned with the arrival of paper money.


Tie pockets from England, Scotland and France.
Under the voluminous clothing of women in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries were two pear or rectangular-shaped bags concealed under the skirt used to carry personal belongings. Usually carried in pairs, one on each hip, and accessed through a slit on the side of the skirt.


Silk workbag with gold stitchery, sequins, glass ang gold plaiting, France, late 18th century.
The workbag was an indispensable accessory at a time when women were expected to spend their free time doing fine needlework. They were often brought on visits and some ladies worked on their bags whilst having tea with their friends.


Various types of reticules
As clothing gradually became less voluminous, the contents of the tie pockets (and work bags) moved to the forerunner of the handbag--the reticule. The word reticule probably had its roots to the Latin reticulum which referred to the small ladies' net bags from Roman times. As you see on the photo, reticules were usually made of cloth and had a cord or chain that could be drawn shut and carried. Some remind me of modern-day wristlets.


Other types of reticules


Various Materials
Tortoiseshell
L: A handbag with a coversheet of tortoiseshell inlaid with mother-of-pearl, Germany, circa 1820; R: A silk reticule decorated with tortoiseshell, MOP, and gilt leaves, France, circa 1840.
Tortoiseshell was expensive and difficult to work with, so they were considered luxurious. The Romans first used the material as furniture and box veneers.



No. 5 is an imitation tortoiseshell handbag from 1950s America; No. 4 is a tortoiseshell card holder with mother-of-pearl inlay.


Ivory

Snakeskin handbag with ivory coversheet 'Eve and the apple', with silver border, Germany, 1920s.



Ivory carrier, late 19th century


Ivory frames with oriental and Egyptian pattern, 1920s


Steel, Filigree, Straw, and Fabric

A steel mini bag



A wicker bag in the shape of a boat house


Fabric tobacco pouch in the shape of a monk with the face, hands and feet in vegetable ivory, Austria, early 19th century.


Lucite/Perspex/Plexiglas/Plastic

Plastic handbags were fashionable in 1950s America. They were made from lucite or perspex or plexiglass. They were initially expensive but the introduction of lower quality versions marked down the price.


Lace
Bridal purse of Maltese lace, Europe, 1910.
 Lace making is a needlework technique that has been around for a long time. Bridal bags or communion bags were often made of white lace, with some crafted using Irish needlework technique. Due to the very delicate nature of lace, it is quite rare to find impressively preserved pieces from the past.



Leather
Various samples of older leather bags
The growing popularity of train travel prompted the need for more sturdy bags. The first leather bags were either tied to the belt, used as a wristbag or a bag with handle. Other leather bags will be shown later on.


Silver-framed Bags 
Black cloth bag with silver frame

Silver frames for handbags showing the years they were manufactured/in vogue. Notice that they were all from the 18th century.


The Jewel Collection
Leather lettercase with fine beaded pictures and copper closure, Russia, early 19th century.


Silk lettercase with a Wedgwood medallion and cut steel beads, England, 1800-1825.


Leather and silk lettercase with embroideries, poem and miniature by Favorin Ledebour, France, 1806.


Black and white beaded bag, 1930s.


Clutch bag with black and white glass beads, France, 1930s.


Brocade bag by Maison de Bonneterie, The Netherlands, 1930s.


Fabric pochette with embroidery and chrome frame, The Netherlands, 1930s.


Purses with pinchbeck covers, France, 19th century.


Purses with miniatures of Parisian buildings, France, 1855.


Silk purse embroidered with gold thread and mother-of-pearl dance card, France, 19th century.


Souvenir pouch with images of Parisian buildings, France, 1855.


Souvenir pouch and pouch cover with miniatures of Parisian buildings, France, 19th century.


Purse with gold thread and golden frame by J Vonk, The Netherlands, 1836.


Purses with golden frames, 1800-1825; and Gilded snuffbox, both from The Netherlands, 19th century; Dance booklet with mother-of-pearl and gold, ivory pages, golden pencil, France 19th century.


Beaded purse with golden frame, by T. C. Moot, The Netherlands, circa 1820.


Fancy anything from these antique bags? I'm drawn towards the purse with pinchbeck covers, fabric pochette with embroidery, and snakeskin handbag with ivory coversheet.

Which one is yours?



Click on Part II ...




















Monday, 27 May 2013

Some Favourite Dutch Treats



Last Friday, 24th of May, the company I work for paid me for the day to loiter at Heathrow aiport. At least that's how I threw a ray of sunshine on my nearly botched attempt to fly out.


My good friend invited me to be the emcee for the launch of his magazine in Amsterdam on the 25th of May, as the person he originally asked couldn't make it. I've been thinking of revisiting Amsterdam anyway, so it was an easy yes. I then requested for a day off work.


I prebooked my tickets to Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh museum, and Anne Frank House. The latter has been in my bucket list since reading her diary as a 12-year old. The queue was so long the first time, I prebooked this time to make sure I get in.


On the day I was flying at 9:55am, my flight was rescheduled for 12:55pm. Then it was again moved to 4pm. And I finally left at nearly 8pm and arrived in Amsterdam centre by 9:30pm. I waited for more than 12 hours at the airport for a 40-minute flight!


If you live in Europe, it was on the news that airport officials suspected a flock of birds was sucked by a plane's propeller, causing the engine to malfunction and setting fire on the wing. Passengers had to be evacuated at the runway. A security alert at another UK aiport prompted a shut-down.


The short of it was I missed my flight, the prebooked museum trips, and a day out in Amsterdam while it was sunny. 



The following day, I didn't wake up to my alarm clock and missed the trip to Anne Frank House. The afternoon was reserved for my hosting job so I wasn't going anywhere.



Needless to say, I felt like a reporter sent to an assignment and came back with no scoop. 



I did manage to walk around on Sunday though before my 7pm flight, which by the way, was nearly delayed again, but only by 20 minutes this time around. As another friend said, I really had Murphy's Law gunning for me.



I'll be sharing with you the few beauties I saw on my Sunday walk, which may be of interest to those who haven't been to Amsterdam and are thinking of visiting one day.



But first, let me share with you what I wore and accessorised with on the day of the magazine launch. I left my dressy trousers in London, but luckily the black jacket saved the day.

MsMadge with a hangover

Please excuse the sunglasses. Anna dello Russo's front-row rules say DO NOT wear sunglasses indoors if you're not a celebrity, but I was mistaken for a has-been, so technically that counted, and I took it as a compliment.



In keeping with my theme, I posted a photo of myself wearing old and new favourites. The GAP boyfriend jeans are a new wardrobe staple. They're very comfortable and goes with heels and block-heeled ankle boots. I consider my black Gucci Malibu slingbacks as one of my best buys. They're classic, goes with anything, and don't cause injury. The bamboo heel gives it a twist. Five years down the road from the shop and we're still together.



 Now, moving on to Amsterdam, the common international knowledge about this little place in Holland is public spliff-smoking and its ignominious red-light district. 


But it has its otherworldly and old world charm I favour going back to. 


The secret garden at the back of the b&b I stayed in. I thought the lamp post and the blooms were delightful.




Ok, this one's not old world, but I love a good cup of coffee especially when I'm away. This one at my b&b was so user-friendly, all I had to do was press a button and voila, I had it ready in seconds, and I was allowed to have as much as I wanted.







The canals are one of the most distinguishing features of Amsterdam. I'd love to live by the water so I do feel a little envious of residents here. I didn't get the chance to take the canal cruise this time. I thought I'd save it for a sunny day.


A castle in the middle of a square, part of which was turned into a restaurant. It's located just outside my friend's b&b.











The Amsterdam Floating Flower Market is the only one of its kind in the world. My friend Chris took me there before I flew back to London. He couldn't believe it that I haven't been there. I promise to go back on my next trip. If you google it, you'll find beautiful images when the shops have more bulbs and flowers on display and for sale. Unlike seasonal or annual flower shows, the market is open all-year round.


The only building I've seen in Amsterdam so far with that wooden type of windows and balcony doors. Chris says the lion seal on top of the building may mean it was owned by a royal.


My friends Chris and his partner David own a b&b opposite a canal. Tulip of Amsterdam b&b (one in the middle with the off-white front) is a lovely little gem in the heart of Amsterdam. Click above to find out more about their b&b. I strongly recommend them should you find yourself in Amsterdam.


His name is Loytje. He's Chris' and David's cat. He owns a little spot by the window of the b&b. Named after their friend Eloy (shortened to Loy), David added the Dutch word for a smaller version of something or someone which is tje. So Loytje is the smaller version of Eloy. Loytje gets every passerby's attention, so C & D decided to set up Loytje's own facebook page! You can find him via facebook.com/LOYTJE. He can be your first friend from Amsterdam. He just knew I was about to take a photo of him. Look, he's so on cue and obviously used to posing like a model with that pout.


Amsterdam's wonky buildings. My other favourite bit aside from the canals. Such gives character to Amsterdam's architectural landscape. They look like misaligned teeth requiring braces. An OC's nightmare. There are lots of them around, and I thought that the structures were so opposite Vienna's which were very symmetrical, it translates into both cities' antipodean cultural outlook.



A bag lover's haven, the one museum that even locals haven't heard of, it made up for the other museum bookings I missed.And boy I found it after trying on tons of vintage dresses in a nearby vintage shop.

I do wish to see Amsterdam one fine sunny day. Next
 post, I'll show you around the Museum of Bags and Purses and we'll be going through some treasures I found. 

x



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